| I bought this amp at a
hamfest. I had never seen one before. I was told all that
was wrong with it was a bad tube and some corrosion on the tuning
cap. The cabinet was repainted and it looked great. We
negotiated a price that I couldn't pass up.
When I opened it up, I found that it was compartmented
and well shielded. I also found that it had spillage into the unit
that ran onto the chassis, causing some corrosion, but did not affect
any components.
The problem with the plate tuning cap was not
corrosion. It had been arcing. Now it kind of looked like
corrosion, but when a high voltage DC snap comes between two aluminum
plates, metal gets transferred just like a welder. One plate gets
thicker, and the other gets thinner, and they both look rough irregular
and flaky.
Arcs will take the path of least resistance, and with
high voltage, a sharp point flaw will cause a corona breakdown.
Once the arc has occurred, the resulting roughness causes the arc to reoccur
at the same point.
The previous owner obviously made this observation,
and he thought he had a solution. He simply took a pair of dykes
and clipped off the corners of the plates that were arcing. Now
this may have worked momentarily, but then the arcing proceeded to the adjacent
plate. By the time I got the amp the cap was pretty chopped up.
I suspect the only "problem" may have been insufficient
loading and/or excessive drive that caused arcing on voice peaks, that
got progressively worse, as the arc path was established.
The next step was to "cold check" all the
components with an ohmmeter. All major components looked
good. The Sigma used a plug in board on the bottom of the chassis
that contained the metering, ALC, and HV rectifier string. A
couple of the rectifiers were shorted, the shunts were good, but the
series HV metering resistors were out of tolerance. I replaced the
bad parts.
I wanted to give a good load test to the filter
caps. The bleeders checked good, so I attached a variable DC supply
to each cap one at a time, and brought the voltage up in increments, and
let the charge current settle down to the bleeder current, until the rated
voltage was reached. My observation was the same for each cap.
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The Sigma with plate tuning cap and tube sockets
removed
Now I had to test the tubes, since this amp was reported
to have a bad one, and I could not see it with an ohmmeter. You just
don't take 3-500Z's to the drug store, so I built a jig so I can connect a
large tube to metered supplies and check against the published plate
curves, using a series of static tests. Check for current stability
around design center maximum as well as proper cut-off. Not as
difficult as one might think.

THE "BIG TUBE" TESTER |